Crossing was quite choppy and the ferry was not at all busy, so my first mistake, I shall never learn, cooked breakfasts on the short routes are not the best in the world and in all probability amongst the worst. I gave the sausages a miss and had mushrooms, bacon, beans (I never have beans)fried egg and black pudding, 2 slices of toast and a coffee. Where shall I begin, the toast and beans where ok, but the bacon was shrivelled, hard and oh so salty, the egg was solid, now if I wanted hard fried eggs I would have asked!!! But the worst was that black puck, last seen skimming across the ice in the Stanley cup. I have had some nice breakfasts at sea, even good ones on the North sea ferries from Newcastle and Hull, BUT why do I never learn, never on the Pas de Calais.
Upon Disembarking, it is only a short drive up the A20 to Canterbury and my Hotel (pre-booked) the Falstaff was absolutely perfectly situated and easy to find, right beside the Norman Gate on St Dunstan’s street.I was early, very early, but this was no problem, I parked the car in the hotel car park left my documents and net book in the hotel for safe keeping and headed off up the main shopping street towards the Cathedral. Here I must say that it is about 40 years since I last visited Canterbury and most is just a veiled memory. I was very pleasantly surprised at the well-kept streets, gardens, lanes, it was so pleasant just wandering the streets. I eventually reached the Cathedral and having paid my 9 quid entered the scene of a murder all those centuries ago. I spent a wonderful 2 hours wandering the aisles, croft and side chapels, I love the noble architecture of these ecclesiastical halls. It is funny, but I do believe I can smell church, they have that smell of centuries about them and the feel of the past congregations, the old wax, the silence and death.
After having my fill of sanctuary, I went out into the pale sun via the Saxon cloister, there was a bit of a chill in the air so I decided on a spot of Lunch, on the way to the cathedral, I had passed quite a few cafes and restaurants, retracing my path I came to a very nice looking Olde Worlde one, this was called the Old Weavers restaurant, nice and cosy, homemade grub. I ordered the steak and Guinness pie with chips, I know I shouldn’t, but forgive me just this once before I get put through the mill by my Doc. The pie was smashing, loads of steak, cooked in rich gravy, topped with a crispy puff pastry crust. I had it washed down with a couple of bottles of cider. I then plodded through a few of the book shops, browsed the Oxfam second hand shop, had a pint and read the Times (yes the Times) in the Black Griffin. I then returned to my Hotel, the room was now ready and so I went up and was ever so surprised. What a smashing little room, en-suit, with trouser press, iron, free Wi-Fi, everything that a traveling person could wish for.
At the price of 39 pounds with full English breakfast and free parking and central, it was a gift; I shall certainly be returning here and can seriously recommend it for anyone wishing to visit Canterbury and the surrounding downs and coastal areas.I had a bit of a sleep, watched a bit of TV and by that time I was feeling a little peckish, so I walked the length of the main street, had look at a few menus but had already decided that the one across the road from the Falstaff suited me just fine, it was a sea food Bistro type restaurant, that looked right up my street.
Chapman’sOn entering, I was greeted by a smiling (this is not always so) chirpy woman that asked my where I wished to sit, I picked a small table (I find it silly for one person to take a four setting table) adjacent to the large bay window. Menu on the table immediately, informed that the days specials where on the chalk board and wonderful left alone to look at the small but well spread (world wise) wine list. Another young lady came and asked if I had decided what I would like to drink (I almost picked a local white, but thought that a Souvigny blanc from just across the channel would be more suited to what I had by this time selected to eat.
An Amuse Guêule appeared; it was a fried gougeon of crispy brill and a large pont neuf (big chip) packed into a newspaper cone . Very tasty. My wine arrived and I ordered:
Fried squid on a bed of rocket and a paprika balsamic dressing. The squid was perfectly cooked, seared on the outside and soft and juicy on the inside, the tentacles nice and crispy. The dressing was just right, adding a nice acidic touch, my compliments to the chef.
I ordered another wine and took stock of the Bistro while waiting for my main course. There was a couple sitting at the bar/service counter drinking wine, above their head was a chalk board giving the bar snacks, white bait, olives and cockles. The restaurant also has an upstairs; I don’t know how many it seats but downstairs has about 30 covers of which 75% was taken (as I was leaving a group of 4 Spanish tourists arrived so this increases the %age).My main course arrived;
Skate Ballantine stuffed with king prawn and brown shrimps, served with crushed new potatoes,Well what can I say about this, that can really do it justice, The Ballantine had been done in a water bath and was succulent, moist and oh so tasty, The crushed new potatoes topped with crispy fried rocket, the whole served with a warm chervil butter sauce. Thanks once again.
I decided on taking coffee and a desert, I was going to have the local cheese board, but thought it may be a bit heavy so settled for the winter berry desert. Stupid me, just have a look at the size of it.This is a wonderful place to have a relaxed evening, there was decent music playing in the background (quite a bit of easy jazz and old crooner stuff), the staff are attentive, not overbearing and ever so friendly, the atmosphere is convivial and it would seem that it has a regular cliental, as on arrival they were greeted by first names’. I had a peek into the kitchen and the kitchen team was young 2 male and a female, if this is the whole team then well done, you’re doing a great job.
I took a few photos and will down load them tomorrow!
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