Coverack to Padstow and on to Minehead.
An Early start for us and it was a very nice trip from Coverack to Padstow, we stopped to take a couple of Photos of Carn Brea, the monument to Cornish tin and copper mining which overlooks both Camborne and Redruth, the site has been inhabited since the Neolithic period BC 3700. The moorland tops and granite outcrops abound with the disused lead mine workings, winding houses, crushing machinery and boiler-room chimney stacks near lend a beauty to the surrounding bleak landscape, they remind me of the area where I was born and brought up, but there are now very few reminders of the old coal workings, such a pity as they are also a part of our heritage. I hope that they will save these for future generations to wonder at what their forefathers went through to irk out a miserly living.
We had intended to do Steinsville (Padstow) and stay the night in the a touring site not far from the town centre, but due to the early start and arriving early and well before the maddening crowds. We went to the Park and Ride, paid 4 quid this included the bus fare and it dropped us off right at the harbour, what with Linda’s disability and what we knew would be the crush later was a very wise move. We walked and hobbled the short distance into town, passing Rick Steins Cookery School.
The tide was out but I think that this adds to the beauty and charm of a fishing harbour, the gulls and wading birds picking through the slick in search of a square meal.
Along the quayside the well stacked crab/lobster pots and loads of youngsters crab fishing.
Across the Camel estuary could be seen the town of Rock, at times when the river Camel carries enough water a ferry crosses between Padstow and Rock, but unless it was one of those boats that fly around the Everglades, I don't think it would transporting tourists that morning.
It was a smashing warm day so I got Linda seated at a small café at the harbour, here she was able to write her cards, drink her coffee and take her pain killers without being hampered and pushed.
I was also able to wander the streets of Rick Steins home town (not only his but I suppose the most famous of its residents). I found his patisserie, his deli, his shop and his café, I knew it was useless trying for the seafood restaurant as it is booked out 3 months in advance, but the café is on a first come, first served basis and I thought this would be the best bet for a spot of lunch.
I walked along the harbour wall taking in the wonderful atmosphere (it also happened to be “Lifeboat Day” and there was a smashing shanty choir from Wadebridge just up the Camel river. I had a pot of whelks and a pot of mixed sea food (plenty of pepper and vinegar) from the solitary shellfish stand.
I then returned to Linda’s café, gave her, her belated birthday present (Rick’s Indian book in a Rick Steins bag). I had been to Rick's café to ask if it was possible to book a table for me and my invalided partner, they said it wasn’t normal, but if we could be there within the next 10 minutes they would look favourably on us (it was my Geordie charm I am sure). We arrived and the nice young girl recognised me and said just take a seat in the hallway, there is a table just paying the bill and it was then ours, what wonderful service.
We got the French window seat leading to the patio, ideal as the waitress said put your bags in front and then no-one can come in through it (it is not the entrance or exit to either the restaurant, patio or toilets so disturbed no one .
We got offered plain tap water straight away and then allowed to peruse the lunch time menu at leisure; there is also the blackboard with the day’s specials.
I decided on Moule Frites, not actually on the menu, but by combining the mussels cooked in white wine with shallots and the thin fried chips, it was a very passable mirage of the real thing.
We had started with the bruschetta; this had been spiced up with the addition of anchovies and I do believe I shall also do this in the future. Linda had the Pad Thai for her main and the portions are adequate for a lunch time, the café has some lovely wall decorations and the staff is very attentive but not overwhelming. We spent a very nice hour and had a leisurely lunch with no hassle, thanks a lot staff of Ricky’s caff (P.S: it was a pity we didn’t go the day before our original plan as Rick was in signing books).
We walked back to the bus stop looking in all of Ricks (well ex-Mrs Steins in reality) projects and enterprises; I think he has just about got every angle covered, funny how a simple thing like fish can make a man a household name.
We decided that as it was still quite early we would put as many miles (KMs) as possible on our journey as we now aimed to head for Pershore and our good friends Carol and Bill, the main reason was to give Linda’s leg a rest without the climbing in and out of high places, but also to return some borrowed equipment. We looked in the Camping and Caravanning Club guide and saw that there was a campsite in Minehead; this would make the dash up the M5 to Pershore the next day a one not too long.
We hit Minehead and as usual missed the turning, when we eventually found it, it was like ”a night on the bare mountain” only this campsite was not on a bare mountain but gave a wonderful view down onto Minehead and the Bristol Channel.
We asked the site warden where we could find a supermarket (we needed to do our Bi-annual UK shop), he informed us that there was a Morrison’s and a Tesco’s just a little past were we had turned when on the outlook for the site, something’s never change and missing turnings are no exception in my case. We spent a very nice evening again on a very nice site with a beautiful view.
A very nice quiet site with a fantastic view down to Minehead bay
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