The
Champignon Sauvage
Along
with Linda I was visiting friends in Pershore, Carol our friend and fellow
foodie from the wildfood.info food board had asked if we fancied a lunch at a
very good restaurant, I never need asking twice, she had been before so knew
what to expect. The fourth member of our little group was Ruth a friend of
Carols another foodie with a palate for good food.
We
visited another friends art workshop and then onto a gallery in which she shows
her works, very nice and well done Gill.
We then
walked a short way looking into a couple of bric-a-brac shops, we then made our
way to the Le Champignon Sauvage, unfortunately a little too early, we arrived
just after 12 noting that the actual opening time was 12:30, we perused the
menu and it got the juices salivating before we even crossed the thresh hold.
CLANK, the door opened and in we went, coats taken and asked if we would like a
drink before being seated at our table, I was driving so it was water for me
and glass of champers for the lasses.
We next got a little amuse bouche,
consisting of a dark rye cracker, with goats cheese, beetroot cubes and pea
leaves. Alongside was a walnut biscuit filled with a blue goats cream cheese. Very tasty,
very tasty indeed.
We got
shown to our table, and the girls ordered a bottle of Rose and a water for me,
then another amuse bouche arrived, this was a butter nut and sweet potato panna
cotta, with a bacon foam topping. Boy did that taste good, a rich creamy yellow
savoury panna cotta topped with an intensive bacon foam, it was truly a first
for me and one I am sure to try and replicate.
Next came
the ordering, choices, choices, choices, it all looked ever so tasty and
interesting, but the starter and main selected, the ladies all ordered seared
scallops and I ordered the pressed pigs cheeks, the girls said that the
scallops were perfect, very well cooked, juicy and soft.
The bread
basket appeared; I chose the wonderful fresh still warm crispy roll of
interesting shape, the others a light bacon and shallot brioche ( I had a one
later)
My pressed pigs
cheek terrine with foraged greens, a light smoked old spot ham and radish, very tasty indeed and still with a residual firmness, the accompanying
puree and sauce a perfect foil for the rich pork.
Ruth chose
the partridge for her mains. She said it was very tasty and perfectly cooked.
The
choice for both Linda and Carol, the Cinderford lamb with cockles. (very
interesting combination, that really worked). Cooked to perfection still
perfectly pink, served on a bed of the most perfectly smooth creamy mash, Carol
said it was true perfection, I agree as I had also the same with my main.
And now I arrive at my
selection “The Halibut”.
The braised halibut with a red
wine sauce, accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke puree and baby glob artichokes,
woodland mushrooms and a creamy mash.
The thick, moist tranche of halibut,
napped with a wonderful red wine sauce, unusual, but interesting and ever so tasty,
there was also some Swiss chard stems that finished off the plate, both in the aesthetics
and adding just a hint of bitterness. All the food perfectly cooked, so
exquisite and well-rounded ,that it was true bliss.
We all passed on the dessert,
with the exception of Ruth, who Carol said had to be the sacrificial lamb and
try the plum dessert in the aid to literary investigation (she is writing a
book on plums).
I thought
I would try a selection from the cheese board, I asked to see the cheeses and
out came a folding trestle and with great aplomb topped by the cheese board this
was in fact a wicker basket tray bursting at the seams with cheeses of every shape,
hue and taste. I counted (afterwards from the photograph) and it contained no
less than 25 unctuous bodies of loveliness. I was spoiled for choice, but under
the expert direction of “The French Cheese Queen” made a selection of eight, I
was honestly only going to have four, but was egged on into gluttony by my dear
companions, though in all reality didn’t need a lot of egging. Perfectly
conditioned cheeses, honed to perfection oozing taste, it was sublime.
My (our,
Carols) selection was:
Cerniy Ash
Vacherin mont de’or
Berkewelle
St. Eadeurgha
Epoise
Munster
Oxford Isis
Bleu de Causse
The plate of cheeses came
accompanied with a selection of crisp breads, sliced walnut and fruit loaf and
a poppy seed roll.
Perfect, absolutely perfect. In a moment of weakness I did
succumb to pressure and give up a small taste of the Bleu de Causse, an action
that I immediately regretted, if it is a sharing plate, then I will willingly
share, if it isn’t then it is for me. I did not mind them helping in the
choice, but I am quite able to do the tasting all by myself, thank you very
kindly Carol.
The plate cleaned, we (the
ladies) ordered coffees and Petits Fours, well the selection was a wonder to
behold, pure decadence, chocolate’s, pastries, jellies, truffles, slices a
fantastic plate (I only tasted the citrus jelly, this was so intense in
flavour, the depth of citrusy zing just
going on and on, the taste increasing into a crescendo of wonderful bliss. As I
am diabetic sweetmeats and chocolate do not turn me on, therefore I left the
rest for the ladies to devour, a feat which they accomplished (almost, there
were a few crumbs left).
It was a wonderful, eating
experience, with wonderful company, the service was prompt courteous and
correct, though the reception could have been a little warmer, the area to have
pre-dinner drinks is nice but somewhat small, if more than two parties wished
to use it, it would be rather cramped. I found the clean lines of the furniture
very pleasing to the eye and the wall art very well thought out and selected.
At a cost of 60 pounds per head for
lunch, including Champaign, wine, cheese for me and petit fours for the ladies,
well worth it, it gets great big thumbs up from me; I have paid more for a less
worthy meal. Every part of it well thought out, perfectly executed and tasted
sublime.
David Everitt-Matthius stand up
and take a bow, your restaurant is well worth its 2 stars (and more). He is an
expert in foraged food, this shows in his menus and I enjoyed it immensely what was
cooked and presented to me was first class and I know my companions with the discerning plates
are also of the same opinion. Well done and thank you for a smashing afternoon.
I've been there three times, and really loved it. The food is amazing!
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