England - August 2012 (day 1) Constable Country and the Kings Head Laxfield

Constable Country

Leaving NRW at midnight, we headed for the Ferry at Dunkirk, after a few false turns we had decided in our own minds that we wouldn’t make the 06:00 ferry, on arrival this was confirmed at the friendly woman in the booking in booths, we passed through passport control and boot inspection and proceeded to the loading lanes, just before arriving at the entrance to park up lanes, we got directed directly onto the ferry, we got on to the ferry as the last vehicle.

So we arrived at those white chalk cliffs, prompt and discharged into a sunny English morning, we headed up the M20 and through the Dartford tunnel.  A few months ago while planning the tour Linda had said that she had never been to Constable Country, I had been in this area many times in the past and Flatford Mill is a particular favourite of mine, so on leaving the ferry put East Bourgolt into the Sat Nav. Linda said why are we going there, I replied that she had requested it, her not knowing that hamlet of Flatford on the river Stour, where the millers son Constable had painted  quite a few of his most famous paintings, lay at the end of a winding lane  from that village. It was not until we had parked up and on leaving the car park that it clicked, this was the epicentre of Constable Country.


swifts catching damselflys over the river Stour at flatford

We spent a couple of blissful hours, wandering in and around the area surrounding the mill, the lock and the cottages.

We visited the hide on the edge of lake, spending a good half an hour watching grebes, mergansers, ducks tufted, pintail and ruddy, swifts hunting, a cormorant up in the trees as well as many butterflies and other flying insects.

We rounded the field containing some polka dotted fat tailed sheep,

 returning to the actual mill buildings

One final look into the Constable exhibition in Bridge Cottage and then up to the car park.  On arrival there where very few cars in the car park, upon leaving it was filling up quite quickly.

We headed up via the coast to our first nights’ accommodation, this was in a small village called Laxfield, we has been directed here by a friend from the wildfood board a website on which I contribute. She used to live here and when I asked if anyone knew of a reasonable B&B in the area, she came to the rescue, suggesting the “Kings Head”, http://www.laxfieldkingshead.co.uk/ this is an old, no, an ancient pub, complete with oak beams, low ceilings, scrubbed deal tables, a fantastic  garden.

We got our baggage out of the car and up into our room in annex.

We had a snooze and then popped down for a spot of grub, we elected to sit out in the wonderful garden, it was a happy garden, the kids and dogs could play and tumble about on the large lawn, plenty of seating and even a small pavilion for those that didn’t like to eat with Al Fresco.

Linda fancied a G&T and I had a pint of “Special” from the tap room. We settled down on our table and a chirpy young lass came to take our order.

The Menu was small but well diversified, a bit of everything for everyone.

I selected, the warm pigeon breast and bacon salad for starters and Linda the goats’ cheese and beetroot.
My pigeon breast was tender and still juicy and pink, the crispy fried lardoons of local bacon a wonderful foil, the small salad with a nice fruity dressing and a wedge of whole meal cob. Linda was in raptures over her warm goats’ cheese and beetroot.

The mains were Gressingham duck breast dressed in a five spice sauce with game chips and spiced red cabbage for me and Linda had the Fish of the day, this was filet of cod with a herb crust, new potatoes and sauce tartar.

My main course of Gressingham duck, succulent slices of wonderfully moist breast, lacquered with an oriental five spice Hoisin sauce, game chips (a little too thick) and a crunchy delicately spiced red cabbage accompaniment . Linda had ordered seasonal vegetables to accompany her Pesto crusted cod tail filet, I snaffled some of these as well. She said that this was cooked to perfection and the Pesto crust was very nice and subtle but not overpowering.

They were both served with seasonal vegetables, carrots and beans.

I must say I did have to get up once to see Mo win the 5000m on a television that had set up in the smoker’s area adjacent to the tap room.

As it was by this time turning dark we went and sat in front room (the pub has no bar, you either order from the staff or go yourself into the taproom),

some of the locals came in and joined us at the scrubbed deal table, we chatted for a good hour, I seated next to an interesting 92 year old young lady, she chatted about her time in Germany just after the war and her daughter who was with her had been born in BMH Hanover 62 years previously. An interesting evening and very interesting chit chat (you learn a lot about village life in these old hostelries).

We had, had a very long enjoyable day, and a weary person, plonked his head onto the pillows and was fast asleep in no time at all.

Sunday morning the day of the picnic.

I was up bright and early, the sun was already warming the ground, so pulling on a pair of shorts and a polo shirt I went out into the early morning air. The Kings Head is situated across from the Medieval Church; it has a square tower much vaunted by churches of the 13^th century.

The present church of All Saints was finished in 1488 sits on the site of a prior Saxon Church, this is born out from the very rare baptismal font dated pre 1460.

Like many of the churches in this strong puritan area, this church suffered at hands of first the reformation at the end of Henry VIII reign and finally during the rule of Cromwell under the hammer of one William Dowsing, who removed all remaining ornaments and Roman Catholic symbols of high church worship.



I returned just as Bob the Landlord was taking his two dogs out for a walk, we had a chat about nothing in particular, as one does in these parts (Lol). I then went and sat in the garden and watched the martins flashing across the lawn before soaring up into the bright blue sky, a tree full of coal and blue tits was a cacophony of chirping. The pigeons, billing and cooing, it would seem that they had decided to make up their numbers again for the one I had eaten yesterday evening. I went up to our room, well, well Linda was up and ready, we decided to load up the car ready for a quick get-a-way after breakfast.
Linda went for a walk and Bob came around the corner to say that if I cared to go into the dining room I could start, now I had been informed by Alison that the Low-House breakfast is a one that sets you up for the rest of the day, but I had arranged with Bob the previous evening that I would be having kippers, well it isn’t every Sunday morning I get to have kippers without stinking out my apartment.

I texted Linda that breakfast was being served so she ordered bacon, eggs and grilled tomatoes. What could be better a bowl of cereal, a fresh brewed cup of coffee and a grilled kipper with granary bread?

We had phoned ahead to our next B&B to see if we could drop our things off before going on to Blickling for the Picnic of the year 2012, the answer was if we arrived before 11:30 it would be no problem, so into the car and then off up to the North Norfolk coast and Sheringham. Bags unloaded and a quick turn-a-round out to Blickling hall grounds and gardens.

I will continue tomorrow.