Around the World (Again) Nha Trang and the old part of town

Another day another Buddha

I had breakfast, sharing the table with a very nice Russian couple, we communicated ( neither speaking the others language), with hands and feet. 

The big black bumbler was back, this time I had my camera with me so was actually able to catch it in action, the Russian lady (yes called Olga, I kid you not) insisted that she took a few photos of me, she actually took a series from all sides. And I thought it was only the Japanese and I that done that.

I had seen a temple on the other side of the harbour on my first trip to the fishing harbour, I now decided to visit it and the old town with market (I do believe I am addicted to them). I walked along the Prom, Prom Prom with a Tiddly Om Pom Pom (the older amongst the UK lot will know this one) until I reached the river that housed the fishing harbour, I watched someone diving obviously for mussels, clams or some other shellfish, there was also a solitary fisher trying his luck, I didn’t see him have any luck but I didn’t stop for long.

Standing in the middle of the bridge quite forlorn were a couple of trays of fish drying in the sun, I wonder if they ever found their owner?

I walked through the streets towards the Wat, this is the Thap Ba, you always know when you are getting close as the souvenir stalls get closer and closer together until the form an end to end row of paintings, make believe antique Buddha’s and other not so ancient artefacts. There before you looms the remains of the Wat it originally consisted of 8 towers, of which only 4 remain. You climb up a lot of steps (didn’t count them) and then you are at the top of the temple mount so as to speak.

You can tell, well I can now, that they are all stylistically different indicating that they have been built at different periods, they are built of red brick and this has disintegrated over the ensuing centuries (built between seventh and twelfth Centuries), the largest built in honour of Pongar the wife of Prince Bac Hai,  one of the lesser temples is dedicated to the god Cri Cambhu the god of fertility and childless couples will come and pray and give alms here.

I visited the small museum that they have on site, here they have on show a few artefacts and  some tradition bridal regalia, not a lot, but as they don’t charge to go in you might as well have look.

It is not a big complex as temple complexes go (nothing on the scale of even the smallest of the Angkor temples), but as it is easily reached from the centre of town well worth a visit. 

It was by now getting hot, very hot, so time for a drink, ice cold water and cold coconut milk straight from the shell, the lady at the stand expertly sliced the top off pushed in a straw to drink the milk and seeing me in difficulty with the plastic one gave me a long handled spoon to eat the creamy inside.   

I lingered a while watching a bit of the goings on in the fishing harbour below. 

I then went down the steps and took a couple of photo's.  

Turning across the bridge towards the old town, this passes through the fishing harbour and there were the fisher folk going about their daily business of net mending fish sorting and ice loading ( a lot of it by the women folk, they know how to treat a women out here).

Over the bridge I walked a little way and turned into what is the old town, here there are no signs written in Russian, or English for that matter, it belongs to the Vietnamese. The kids were just returning from their lunch breaks all dressed in white shirts and red neckerchiefs. Many being dropped off by parents and bigger brothers and sisters from motorbikes.

I passed a church, I think it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary so was in all probability one from the other mob.

Next door was an internet shop Vietnamese style and across the road was a shop selling caged birds, hundreds and hundreds of them, no wonder I never hear many when I walk through the woods here in Vietnam.

Ahead of me was a very large statue, this I knew was at the intersection of 2 thang 4 and a right turn would take me in the direction of the market, it did but the streets became small lanes and allies, but that is something no one need be afraid of here in Vietnam a little smile a pointing to the map and they will help you on your way with a “where you from” when you say England (because that is where I come from even though I haven’t lived there for over 40 years), they immediately ask “London, Manchester” but easily recognise Newcastle when told, they learn the cities from watching football.

I turned a corner and there right before me was the Cho Dam, the central market, it is a very nice market, containing everything an Eastern Market should have, and because it is where it is, also a lot more, some of the islands offshore are where the sea swallows nest, that give up their nest to make birds nest soup, and also where you will be able to buy the best fish sauce in the world, this is made further down the coast (not far were the family boarded the train), you smell Mui Ne long before you see it, the smell of fermenting fish fills the air for miles around, it is absolutely repulsive, but without it there would be no wonderful Mui Ne fish sauce. There is also the wonderful fermented shrimps and shrimp paste, dried shrimps, cuttlefish and squid, stalls and stalls of it.

There was of course all of the other products that we have become to expect at these wonderlands and because of its close proximity to the fish harbour, fresh fish abounds, I asked a fish seller (they are always female) if they would mind if I took some photographs (always a good idea when they have sharp knives in their hands).

She immediately took me from stall to stall and told me, what each lady was selling and what it was used for (well I think that is what she was telling me as I did not understand a word that the very kind lady was telling me) but I got some great shots, thank you kind fishwife.

I then walked along the fruit and veg stalls to the end of the market, I espied with my little eye something beginning with R, a restaurant, not any old restaurant but a gourmet one. Well that is what it proclaimed and it looked the part. 

I entered but alas I was too late for lunch, but I was welcome to go upstairs and have a drink if I wished, I did wish and I did go upstairs, I was given a nice table and a nice young lady brought me the wine list. I perused and selected a New Zealand  grey burgundy from Marlborough sound, it was from Scotts vineyard and it was beautiful, crisp clear as a bell, it would have went down lovely with a spot of fish for lunch, alas I had to make do with another glass.

Sitting at the end of the row of tables was a rather portly gentleman, by his accent French, he was discussing with someone who was obviously the designer of the menu about changes (the conversation was being carried out in English), every now and then a lady who was obviously the head of front of house was also involved as was the head chef. It was all very interesting and I as ever being, well, more than a little inquisitive, asked him during a lull in the operation if he was the patron, Oui came the reply and he then informed me that he had another restaurant in town, this he had had for 4 years. But he had now decided that it would be better to get a place nearer the market and this one had just been open 3 weeks. He said that they done a buffet each evening and at a cost of VND 300 you can eat as much as you wish and also drink your fill of the house wines. I was cordially invited to come along the following evening, alas I would be on my way to Hoi An. Just then another chap turned up and he said sorry but he must leave me as this was one of his wine suppliers and he needed to get his prices down, so he was getting a free meal. Bloody hell why wasn’t I a wine supplier. Downstairs are the kitchen and delicatessen as this is not only a restaurant. But I managed to catch the head chefs eye and had a little chat with Oliver (his name) very interesting a Frenchman and had been working here in Nha Trang also for 4 years.

This, the market and the old town are really all that made the town of Nha Trang worth visiting.

But on leaving the restaurant, I headed in the general direction of the sea, I passed a school and it must have been sports afternoon, because, in the area behind the gates was a whole lot of activities taking place, volley ball, badminton, basketball and arms drill, I kid you not, there they were, helmets on bayonets attached advancing line abreast to the commands of a drill instructor, this was too good a shot to miss. 

I took a few and I notice a couple of persons advancing towards me, oh fiddle thought I now you have done it, it is down the old coal hole with you! Out came a hand from the lady, welcome, would you like to come in, well the ground could have opened up and swallowed me, would I like to come in of course I would, will it be ok to take photo’s yes no problems, can I talk to the students, yes, yes please do and with that they turned to keep an eye on the sports proceedings.

I took some more photo’s, had a nice chat with a few of the students (all spoke English) I learned this is called Ischool, I have made some investigation on internet, I know that they are having a conference in the Humbolt University in March, but more than that I cannot tell you! Anyone throw some light on this?

Crossing the road I smelt the small of fresh roasting coffee, I was outside of a coffee roasting business. 

I stopped and looked in at the sacks of coffee beans, just then a gentleman said why don’t you come in and try some, no sooner said than done. Was led to a small table, he said I am the owner and can I suggest this coffee, it is called four seasons and as the name suggests the beans are selected from the very best of the given season then roasted and blended. I said I would love to try some, first on the table comes a Vietnamese green tea. 

The owner then showed off his daughter and then his pride and joy, his grandson, insisting I take a photo of him, the daughter had by this time put the glass with the aluminium percolator on top on the table, and the idea is you drink the tea while waiting for the coffee to dribble through into the glass. It is black and strong, it can be drunk with sugar or black, I naturally black. I paid my few VND, I forget how much, but 10 times as cheap as at Starbucks and 10 times as good.

Outside I walked along the road and came upon another Church, this time the doors open, so I popped in, just to have a lookie, lookie, if you get the cut of my jib. Inside were a few people in prayer, I noticed they were all females and all quite old, I could not make out the name of the church but they at least wished everyone a Happy New Year.

I then went past the Party Headquarters (don’t be silly and ask which party), it said not to take photographs, this was hung on the fence so I didn’t take a photograph of the fence, though it may have crept into it Unbeknown to me as I photographed the building.

I turned the corner and was back at my hotel, I was shattered I had walked many kilometres, it was very warm (30°C+) it was time for a Siesta. When I awoke it was quite late so I just popped out to the bottom of the alley and got myself a pork filled baguette, this is first spread with duck liver pate then tomato, cucumber and other pieces of greenery, I had intended it to be for my breakfast, but hunger overcame my self-control and I ate it.

Tomorrow morning I was off to Hoi An on the next stage of my journey Northwards through Vietnam, so it was an early-ish night. Night-Night.