Belfast New Years Eve, Amy’s Bed and Breakfast and Safa Indian restaurant,

In true BBC form due to situations beyond our control we had to change our program, this meant going to Belfast on New Year’s Eve instead of spending it with Bob in Kilkeel. We booked in a B&B on the Antrim Road, Amy’s Guest House, it was a small, clean affair in an Edwardian terraced house, it had recently had some renovations done and a slap of paint, though there was still some work to be done (the en-suite door was very ill fitting) it was well worth the money. 

We arrived and Nick the owner was on duty, he had given his “girls” the New Year off, he is a dried out alcoholic, so as he said, “it was better to stay out of the way of temptation”. He showed us to our room,which was small with the bed taking up most of the space, though I have been in smaller cabins at sea, it wasn't much bigger, but for a couple of nights it would be more than adequate.  

There was a small newly furnished en-suite, it would do us for our main reason for being there which was to be near to the Stena Terminal for the ferry to Cairn Ryan the next morning and still central to town.  Down in the residents lounge/dining room  Nick made us a smashing pot of tea, showed us the workings of the TV and after answering our queries about buses into town and a Taxi the next morning left us to our own devises.

On the ground floor, adjacent to lounge/dining room is a well equipped kitchen which Nick said we were at liberty to use.

We decided as it was New Year’s Eve to head into town on the bus, there is a stop just across the road at the corner of Cliftonville Road and Antrim Road, this takes you straight into the centre of Belfast, we hopped onto the number 12A paid the 3 quid each and were soon set down on Royal Avenue. In front of us was the well adorned, tastefully, in its Christmas lights. 

Friends who live and work in Belfast had informed us that Safa was a very good Indian restaurant and was very central, we found Bank Street and a light trail set into the pavement led us to the famous Kelly’s traditional Irish pub, next door and upstairs was Safa Indian Restaurant

We were cordially greeted at the door, inquired if we had a reservation (were these the wrong sort of Indians?). Answering no, he consulted his large diary and seating plan and gave us a nice table for two not far from the door. Inquiries as to what we would like to drink, saying they had Kingfisher beer on tap. We were presented with the menu, this is quite extensive and covers most of the foods from the Indian sub-continent, but what hit me right between the eyes was “goat”, but before I could inquire my hopes were dashed, sorry sir but there is no goat on the menu, it is out of season,the goat-meat  that is supplied in Northern Europe is kid that was born in early spring, raised throughout the summer and slaughtered in autumn, this was very late December so I was out of luck. “But we do  have some very nice lamb, sir” came the offer. So we ordered our meals.

Papadoms to start for both of us, this came with three dishes consisting of a light vegetable pickle, a mango chutney and a spiced yoghurt dish.

Next the true starters : A mixed platter for two consisting of onion bhajee’s, chicken and lamb tikka pieces, Samosa's, spiced chicken wings and small kebabs.  All very well cooked and tasting fantastic.

For the mains: I had ordered the lamb tikka cooked in the tandoor oven, it was succulent pieces of Irish lamb, perfectly seasoned, this was accompanied by a vegetable tandoori sauce, perfect absolutely perfect.

Linda had ordered a chicken Balti, which she said was also perfectly cooked and the chicken was butter soft without falling apart, with the sauce had just the right amount of heat (for her). 

We had plain boiled rice, a chapatti and an onion and garlic Naan as the accompaniment.

The waiter service was perfect, it was prompt and well organised, very friendly without being overbearing, just a polite” is everything to your liking” a couple of times. The whole bill came to 65 quid for the two of us, now that was a gift.

We decided to have a look in next door at Kelly's Cellars, we walk along the outside passing a fella having a fag, he said in a broad Belfast accent ”aye get yersels insoid noy, ter’s a waam foyer and gud Craic in tear”, we took him at his word, so inside we went, it was quite full and most of the tables were taken, but we managed to squeeze onto a couple of seats at the table nearest the door, I ordered a pint of the black stuff for me and a gin and tonic for Linda, plonked them on the table and just then the chap that had accosted us outside, came back in from his fag break, and seeing us said with a twinkle in his eye,” I tol yi a liddle loy abaut ti foyer”. But the Craic was good and though they had no live music, the canned music was great, something for all tastes, from fiddle and pipe to modern cat-a wailing. The clientele was as varied as the music, flat capped and over coated wizen old knackers  to high heeled scantily dressed young fillies a veritable mixture of Belfast night life, what a wonderful place, a must for visitors to Belfast.

We decided to move on to the Titanic Quarter, but before we reached there, Linda needed, urgently, the little girls room, so we back tracked to a bar we had seen a few minutes earlier, The Garrick Bar

this is a real old bar with cut-glass mirrors and hanging chandeliers, well-kept and so Linda ordered us drinks and promptly disappeared to the toilets, we found a couple of seats in the well frequented but not overfull bar and savoured our drinks while pondering what to do next, we decided that we would head back to the B&B and watch the New Year in on the tele. We grabbed a cab and in next to no time we were back on the Antrim Road and our B&B.

Linda wanted to watch something on TV so I went up to our room, and switched on my PC, to read my e-mails and catch up with the news via skype from my daughter who is back packing in Laos (following in her fathers footsteps). I then decided to stream tv and just then it was time for Mrs Browns Boys film and then Jules Holland Hootenanny, Linda came up and we started watching it together, I must say I did not see in the New Year as I was fast asleep by that time.

Next morning we had decided on no breakfast s, we were travelling Stena Plus and would eat on board, Nick had actually taken 10 quid off for not taking breakfast.  The taxi arrived as ordered and it was off and in plenty of time for the ferry (Linda likes to be super punctual).

A good night was had in Belfast, I do believe that I would do it again if catching the early ferry as it means it is stress free, though I will also say if travelling only to Ireland I would prefer to travel via the France to Rosslare ferry, it is much more civilised, cuts out the England crossing with the Oscar wild, the Oscar Wilde is a fantastic ferry with excellent meals, though saying that, the DFDS from Newcastle to Ijmuiden (Amsterdam) also has very nice restaurants on board and I do get to see my sister only 15 minutes from the DFDS terminal at North Shields.

We had a safe journey from Linda’s brothers, where we had left the car across the breadth of the UK (Port Logan to Backworth), stayed the night at my sisters, went shopping for a few necessaries at the local Morrison’s and caught the ferry the next day.

We had a nice meal onboard, then decided to have an early night and have a read and I done a bit of writing up for my blog. There were a few bangs and crunches as the vessel ploughed through the Troughs and over the peaks, but I slept through it,  it would seem that Linda did not.

Next morning I was up early and caught the watery sun coming up over the North Sea as we approached the coast of Holland. If I have a long journey ahead of me I never eat breakfast as if do then I have to take my diabetic medicament, this can cause a violent bowl movement 2 hours later, it is not nice if caught between service stations. So I tend to starve myself instead, Linda had a continental breakfast and read her book.

The Blue Ribbon Restaurant

Blue Ribbon Restaurant Menu

The Explorer Restaurant Breakfast Buffet, but not for me!

The breaking dawn over the North Sea

The Bar and lounge area

Entrance to Ijmuiden Harbour

The Fort Island at the river mouth

We arrived on time, docked

From there is only the journey across Holland and North Germany and Home.

Herrenhaus restaurant revisited.

Another visit to the „Herrenhaus“ Stockelsdorf.

We had been working very hard over the past few weeks, what with packing , lugging cartons up and down stairs, painting and decorating, dismantling and rebuilding furniture, I thought we deserved a bit of a treat so before setting off from Rheda on Friday I booked us into the Herrenhaus, I was originally wanting to book for lunch, but as luck would have it, someone had booked the whole restaurant for the lunch time, but the Lady on the telephone suggested the evening, so that was it, booked.

I had said as luck would have it, this was because it then left us the whole weekend without breaking wind (should one say that?) to get the flat in some semblance of order.

We decided that we would walk there (it is less than 1km) and the walk takes you through the smashing park, that once belonged to the owner of the residence, but now is open to all and is looked after by the local council. It was a very nice sunny warm evening , with the sun breaking through the trees lighting up the carpets of woodland flowers, the small lake had a few ducks gadding about, mating, looking for mates or being just plain raucous.

 

 

 

 

 

We had booked for 18:30 and being a bit before time decided to have a look down into the Vaulted Cellar bar, now this is the place to book for a party, it is full of Character and is tastefully decorated with subtle lighting. As I said the last time this could become my local.
 

 

We then went up to the entrance hall, this can be and is used for receptions, buffets and gatherings before concerts etc. it has glass cases full with pottery and busts on pedestals.

We were greeted by a very nice Herr (this turned out to be the restaurant owner), he asked if we had booked, affirmative and name given and then showed us to our tables. All nice and civil just as it should be.

I believe I explained a bit about the house in my last review, but just to recap; it was the country residence of a wealthy  manufacturer of earthenware pottery. Each room is tastefully decorated and the history of the building shines through in the ambience, with what decorations showing the history of the building.

 

 

Now seated, the waiter (Herr Lakins the owner who was to be our waiter and host throughout the evening) asked if we would like an appetitive, while we browsed the menu, this we had, Linda a very nice prosecco and I an apperol with sparkling wine.

While perusing the menu Patrick (we were now on first name terms) appeared with a basket of fresh, still warm rolls and some herb cream cheese. It is these type of extras that make the difference between a good and a very good restaurant.

We had selected our meal, we had plumbed for the selection of starters for two and I the lamb and Pan fried Zander was Linda’s choice for the mains. The wine list was asked for and duely brought, this was very comprehensive and had a selection to suit every taste, occasion and dare I say it every pocket.

We selected a Grauburgunder; I would have normally had a red with my lamb, but thought that as Linda was having Fish and the “Vorspeiße platter” also had quite a bit of fish and salads, we would choose something light and white.

Meal ordered, Patrick arrived with another amuse gaule on the house, a very nice gesture. This was a house cured salmon (gravedlax art) with a honey, mustard, glaze sitting on a potato rosti, very tasty.

Patrick came to our table and we had a good bit of a chin wag, he told us that he had a Grandmother that came from Reading and that he was often there in his childhood, his father was Canadian and he had travelled extensively in Canada. We chatted moving easily from German into English and I am sure at times speaking Ger-glish. We told him a little about us and our move and that as foodies were so happy that we had a very good restaurant on our doorstep.

The Starter variation for two (Vorspeißvariationen)

This was a very wise selection; it showed the depth of food that was being served from the kitchen, it is a changing selection of the entrees being served, a tasting menu!

It consisted of:

A seasonal cream of asparagus soup served in expresso cups

Coqilles St Jacque’s (scallops) with a very subtle lemon sauce

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cured Lamb “ham” on melon

 

 

 

Fresh young (as they are supposed to be) mild cured matjes

A tranche of Hot smoked salmon topped with the same honey, mustard, dill sauce from before.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rose roast beef filet with a fruity sauce on a bed of shredded lettuce

 

 

 

To this was added some antipasti of grilled mushrooms and olives.

We started with the wonderful cream of asparagus soup, a fantastic deep creamy texture, earthy, thick and rich. I must say that it was all truly delicious

 Next was the Matjes, Linda never being a Matjes fan, has become a convert, these Matjes were mild and soft, not a bone in sight (though I will have to tell her that not all Matjes are so subtle).

The Lamb ham was wonderful, very mild and the sweetness of the melon was a nice foil to the light smokiness of the “schinken”.

The Scallops, well what can one say about scallops, you can cook them correctly or murder them, these had been cooked to perfection, crisp and golden outer with the soft succulent flesh inner, ecstasy pure ecstasy.

The hot smoked salmona, this speciality of the Baltic coast, was smoked to perfection, with a golden crust but still translucent and moist inside, this shows the sign of a real smoke profi, a meister.

The whole platter was not only tasty but was nicely presented and we both enjoyed it immensely.

The mains
Linda’s Zander filet on a bed of spinach with browned potatoes and herb butter

Linda had selected the above as she fancied something a little lighter, the zander (pike-perch) came beautifully browned on the skin side, sitting on a bed of fresh wilted spinach, and accompanied with some nicely browned potatoes, these are boiled potatoes, cut into wedges and then fried until they just take on a light brown colour (I had, had these with my meal the last time we visited) and are very tasty indeed.
Linda really enjoyed her fish crisp outside and just translucent flakes inside, perfectly cooked as the French would say “a la point”. She said the spinach was well rounded with onions running through it.

My Braised Leg of Lamb

My Lamb, well it was a very pleasant well-cooked lamb, now I am normally a pink, very pink man), but if lamb of Hogget is to be braised then it should be, as was  in this case, meltingly soft, not falling apart, but still able to be carved  into thick juicy slices, just as this was.

I certainly enjoyed this and all the more as it was accompanied by a very nice gratiniert potato cake, and green French beans sauteed with diced schallots, the beans still crisp and a la dent. The whole was served with very deep sauce, that tasted of Rosemary, I think if that a sauce is going to be served with lamb, then it is to be (to the horror of the rest of Europe) a nice mint sauce, a fruity red current jelly or as in this case a meaty sauce with a definite taste of Rosemary, perfect, just perfect.

The potato gratin cake was well browned, luxurious, creamy and well-seasoned.

We drank the crisp, fruity Grauburgunder, Patrick served the wine and the water from a separate table, this allowed the table to remain uncluttered (how often do mishaps happen because of that wine bottle or water carafe being accidently knocked). It also gave us a chance to have a chat with him as he came to replenish our glasses (he never lost sight of the wine level).

Patrick was the perfect host, always attentive but not overbearing, willing to have a conversation when the time allowed, but always keeping an eye on the comings and goings at the kitchen. A very, very enjoyable evening indeed.

The Lamb is a seasonal special menu, this changes every few months, I believe that it is about to change soon, so any lamb lovers better hot foot it there. But even if it is not on the menu, there is bound to be something to suit your taste.

Before leaving we chatted about the coming events in and around the restaurant, there was to be a 1^st of May event in the garden in front of the house (decking the May tree, speeches, beer etc.), the German Mother’s day Brunch, a Whitsunday Brunch and various open air concerts and music festivals throughout the summer. We immediately booked for the Whitsunday (Pfings) Brunch, so that is our next visit to the restaurant planned, though I can see us visiting the Gewölbekeller before then.

May Day

We had decided to visit the May Day celebrations, that take place on the lawned area to the rear of the Herrenhaus. We arrived at 11:00 after a nice stroll through the park (this is not large, but is very pleasant and I can see me sitting at the edge of the lake doing a bit of bird watching. The woodland flowers carpeting the floor under the trees just trying to burst into leaf.

The mallards had paired up and there was a couple of tufted ducks that had obviously plighted their troths. The trees full of finches, starlings, black birds and of course the billing and cooing of the collared doves.

 

When we arrived, the music and speeches were in full swing, a mobile stage housed a skiffle group from Timmendorf and arranged alongside was the Stockelsdorf Firebrigade band.

 

The grass was full with benches and tables, filled with the young, the middle-aged and the old, I do believe that the whole of the town had turned out to welcome in the May under the Maibaum

 

It was a wonderful warm spring morning and the Herrenhaus catering department was in full swing, bratwurst, pork collar steaks, turkey cutlets, salads.

 Also cakes, waffles, ice-creams and coffee abounded, you could have any or all of them (together if you so wished).

 

For those that care to drink that early in the morning (alas I was driving to NRW later, so not I) was the heady Maibock beer, Maibowle a punch laced with strawberries, woodruff and sparkling wine.

 

For those that didn’t drink (children and motorists) were alc-free drinks, ah well, next year.

 

We got to know some of the locals (these events are great for making new acquaintanceships) enjoyed the music and the wonderful surroundings before going home picking up the camper and heading off into the South.

A restaurant review - Herrenhaus Stockelsdorf.

We had been working very hard over the last couple of weeks, what with packing, moving furniture and boxes, wall  papering and painting so for Sunday lunch before I set off back to NRW we decided to go out for Sunday Lunch. We decided on the local restaurant “Herrenhaus”, this is a one time country house of a local Fayence and tile manufacturer (faience) from the mid 1700s.

We had been to have a look at the outside and the park a few weeks ago and thought it looked very nice and the menu well balanced and reasonably priced.

We travelled in our mobile home and very luckily got the only free parking space, so if visiting on a Sunday it is advisable to reserve and walk (Linda did walk home) it is only a short walk from our new home.

We arrived and it seemed that a lot of families from grandparents through to the very young had decided that the first spring weather was a good time to go out mob-handed for Sunday lunch, just our luck!

We entered into a large vestibule, with various pieces of pottery in a glass display case, there was a reception going on so we actually missed this on the way in and it was not until later after reading a bit about the history of the building that I went out and had a closer look.

As I said the restaurant was quite full, but we got shown to a very nice window table overlooking the park garden with its small lake (still in the main frozen, so the ducks and moorhens were skating on thin ice).

A very pleasant waitress came almost at once and handed us the menu’s, also delivering a silver bread basket with fresh backed rolls and a small plate of sundries tomato and herb butter. We ordered a bottle of water, as I was driving and scrutinised the well balanced menu. Linda had at first thought about having the duck with red cabbage, but some one on the adjacent table had just been informed that the duck was finished (probably fell through the ice). So she settled for the “Angebotsmenu” this is a set menu that they offer for a period and this is at the moment the braised leg of lamb menu.

I had, though I can never have enough, a surfeit of lamb over the past 2 weeks and had seen that they had Grünkohl on the menu and I must say that the last time I had Grünkohl had been before Christmas so it was time to get my winter fix.

So Linda’s fixed menu was:

Wild garlic cream soup

Braised leg of lamb in a rosemary sauce with green beans and potato gratin
Rhubarb compote with vanilla ice cream

Mine was a far more rustical selection:

I ordered the Brochette as my starter,

followed by one of my all time favourites, Green Curley kale with pigs cheek, Kassler, special smoked sausage and what was termed as browned potatoes.

Not only did we get a well stocked bread basket and the tomato butter, but along came the waitress with two amuse bouche served on those Yuri Gella presentation spoons. This consisted of a cream cheese filled smoked salmon roulade on a cucumber slice, a very nice touch and very tasty.

Linda’s Soup and my brochette arrived, Linda’s soup had a foam island floating in it, it looked very nice and she said it was excellent.

My brochette consisted of 4 nice sized roasted crouton topped with a very good portion of a diced tomato and herb salsa, these surrounded a small salad with a very nice raspberry dressing, I realise that it isn’t what one would or should call out of the ordinary, but it was well presented, well rounded and most of all tasted nice to boot.

Next in came the mains.

Linda’s lamb which she said was soft and tender and very tasty. The vegetables and sauce really well cooked and presented.

I had ordered the Grünkohl as having lived for the past 20 years in East Westphalia where they believe that they invented the dish, I always like to make a comparison. This was served with the Schweinebacke (pigs cheek), a slice of kasseler (cured and then smoked pork loin) a Kohlwurst (a sausage specially manufactured to accompany the curly kale) and what was termed “ gebräunten Kartoffeln” (browned potatoes).

I found the composition well rounded and was a bit perplexed when I was asked if I wanted sugar for the Grünkohl, now I had heard of this strange custom but have put it down to me not quite getting the dialect, but no they do actually sprinkle sugar on their savoury cabbage, ah well there is nowt stranger than folks.

On reflection, though it was very tasty, I think I prefer mine done in the Westphalian way, with cured ham hock, smoked mettenden, Kasseler and fried potatoes and no sugar.

We both thought the meal was very tasty and it showed on our cleaned plates.

 

Linda’s desert came it was a nice portion of stewed rhubarb with a fair dollop of vanilla ice cream. Here was the only part that didn’t turn out well, Linda discovered a piece of sharp plastic in her rhubarb, this took the edge (sorry, couldn’t resist) off her meal, the waitress was very apologetic but alas a minus point.

We had a very nice meal, with only the one small fault. I must compliment the waiting staff on their very professional and speedy service. They where very friendly and it was a joy to eat at the restaurant and we shall certainly return, I like the idea of them having various events, musical concerts etc in the park garden. So we are now planning for the Whitsun Brunch in May and also Swedish mid-summers festival in June.

Just in passing I do like the look of their vaulted cellar bar!!!!  

 

For anyone visiting Lübeck for the Christmas Market or the Travemunde Woche, it is well worth a small detour (it is signposted) but book a table as I am sure in summer places are at a premium.

 

http://www.herrenhaus-stockelsdorf.de/index2.html

 

Faience (Fayence Ger)

This was the forerunner of the fine Chinese porcelain of Meissen, Wedgewood, Limoges and Copenhagen, it was delicate earthenware pottery with a tin-oxide on a lead slip glaze. The process was first introduced into Europe from Faenza in northern Italy and was soon copied through out Europe. Delft being a famous production centre, as was many of the other pottery manufacturers in Northern Europe, one of which was the Georg Nikolaus Lübbers of Stockelsdorf .

The original process is thought to have been refined in Persia or the Indus region, but beads have been found in Egypt from pre-Christian times so the process may well have been first refined in the Nile valley and then taken to the land of the two rivers by traders only to return westwards via Persia and then on to Italy. A similar process was also used on the Balearic Islands and traces of this pottery can also be found in other Mediterranean areas, whether by trade or manufacturing process may be we shall never know.