Around the World (Again), Kangaroo Island and return to Port Elliot

Kangaroo Island the last two three days and back to Port Elliot

A wonderful sunrise above the Ironstone Hill, I sat for a while before breakfast, me and the rather vocal bird in the tree,

 

as she rose above the tree line on the hill, a new day was dawning.

I







 then needed to make contact with Germany, that was after I had finished my breakfast. Breakfast finished and dishes done, good backers always clean up after themselves (I do wish there were more good backpackers) I was then free to have my natter with Linda. By the time I had finished the Sun was burning bright and hot, well over 30°, it had been promising this for a couple of days, I decided to slap on some screen, slip on a T-Shirt and top it off with a hat (all be it not my proper one). I went down to the beach and there was the “Crew”, swinging in a hammock as he was trying to hire Kayaks, they had brought them down to the beach as now the Christmas Summer Holidays had started in earnest (Still takes a bit to get my head around this fact but I do like it). We chatted a bit and then I said I am going to have a bit of a wander along the beach in the direction of Frenchies  Rock (the imitation one). I went for a good old fashioned “plodge”, is this word used anywhere other than in the Geordie dialect? The cooling waters of the Great Southern Ocean were not at all unpleasant, in fact the opposite; they soothed my red legs rather nicely. I had my thongs in my hands, Now before you go red in the face, thongs are Aussi flip-flops and not as you lot think a piece of ladies underwear all be it a small piece.

I clambered up onto the rocks that mark the end of the beach and sat on a flat one and looked out to sea and watched a ferry leaving and another arriving, it was hot and even though I had put plenty of sun screen on and covered my shoulders, I could feel the heat getting at my exposed skin. I thought, enough of this Tom Foolery, time to head for a bit of shade, I walked back through the foam, knee deep and arrived back at the beach shelter just as Tony arrived.  We chatted a bit and then some customers came along and before you could say Jack Robinson, all of the kayaks were hired out.

(you will be wondering why no photographs, well no camera, it was back in the room)

Though in the shade, the beach shelter didn’t give any relief from the heat, I thought only place I know where, I can get a bit of relief is the Penneshaw Hotel and as it was midday a bite to eat wouldn’t go amiss either, I popped into the YHA to get my camera.  So it was a pepper steak pie and chips and a couple of Hahn beers (ice cold). I chatted with the barmaid, over the past few days she had come to know the POM that popped in for lunch and in fact just picked up the ice cold glass (pint that isn’t a pint) and poured me an Ice cold Hahn. I can’t remember what the exact conversation was about, but then you never do, do you? I believe it was about the Christmas decorations that had been put up.

She said well you’ve got to make the effort at this time of year, at which we both curled up with laughter.
Lunch over, I decided that it really was too hot to be out and about in this heat and headed back to the YHA via the long way, this is along the top of the rocks through the real Penguin Colony, I was able to see that the conservationists had been busy and had covered the nesting burrows with netting to keep out the heat, they had even put up a sun umbrella over a one.  

The landing beaches, any thing but the Paparazzi   

I walked down to the terminal and then watched the ferry leave, I then took to my bunk for a siesta, it was only about an hour and I heard someone come in, it was Viet leu a happy chappy, who had been out on a tour, we talked a bit about what he was doing here, He had a degree in Law and was just finishing his Master’s Degree in Business studies at Melbourne, in fact he was catching the late ferry, so that the  next day so that he could to catch the bus from Adelaide to Melbourne, which would arrive at 08:00 Saturday morning, in time for the ceremony at 10:00. Now that is what I call timing!

Libby had been out crabbing and had brought me 2 fine blue swimmers (also called sand crabs), these wonderful sweet crabs really are delectable, those I decided to have for evening meal, I do love a nice crab. I had these with just a dash of soy,oil,chilli mixture (dipping sauce), sometimes the simple thingsin life are the best.

I went out later to watch the last ferry docking, it was still, too still, I know this type of feeling, the still before the storm , Bob Dylan wrote about it as well, "that stillness in the wind before the hurricane begins".

Helen who had been working in the morning, had actually said make the best of this as there is bad weather on the way (she and her husband have a farm), at about midnight, the winds started and it blew all through the night, it was a funny one as it came from the West so actually blew right across the Island.

Next morning quite a few were leaving that day most in the afternoon or like myself on the last ferry (I had to do this as the only transport to my next destination was Port Elliot only ran once a day and that was to connect to the ferry). It blew a hooley all day, at midday Sealink stopped sailing at about 15:00 I went to the office and made inquiries, they offered me a ferry at 05:30 (this was the ferry that should have been at Cape Jervis) but then she said oh! you can’t, you will have to get the last one (the bus to Port Elliot), I said actually I am not much bothered as I don’t have to be in Perth until the 12 Jan (when I catch the flight to Bangkok), she laughed and said well the ferries should be sailing by then.

I returned to the YMCA to tell them that I had just rebooked for the next day, after Helen returned and we all got our bunks reissued, there were quite a few people stranded on the Island and were searching for accommodation, but we had no problem as we had our bed for the night. Helen even phoned to Port Elliot and Adelaide to move all of my bookings forward one day, nothing was a bother to those girls.

So now what was it going to be tonight go shopping or eat out, I decided I would go out for something to eat, the local fish and chip shop has a very good name, it does all local produce and has the famous King George Whiting, sounded good to me alas when I arrived it was shuttered and bared, a notice on the door telling ll who would listen that they are closed today as the host had a catering event to take care of so therefore couldn’t open the shop.

Next door was a Pizza place, it also sold Island products and other foods stuffs, a bit like a Schnell Imbiß back home (Germany home that is), the Pizza wasn’t at all bad, a nice thin base and plenty of meat and feta cheese, I had ordered a herb lamb, not very Italian I know, but then we were not in Italy or at my mate Marino’s Pizzeria.

I then went back to the YHA and we all discussed the problems that missing the ferry had caused, but not for me, the only deadline I had to keep was January 14^th at Perth to catch my flight to Bangkok. It was still blowing quite a bit, but seemed to have changed direction, a good sign or a bad sign, well I haven’t a clue I left that sort of wise stuff to the Mates, it was there job to steer the ship mines was to make sure they had the power to be able to do it. I went to bed and slept very well, but was awake to hear the hear the ferry leave as promised at 05:30, during the night the wind had dropped and there was just a little swell running and that was it, nowt.

Nothing exciting happened during the day, so I just hung around and waited for my ferry. By late afternoon the Backdoor Passage was like a mill pond, so after all the hoo-hah, it was no problem and the crossing was smooth.  The Cape Jervis (named after one of the RN Admirals) appeared and the wind turbines on the hills were hardly turning, I bet that they had to shut them off  last night!

At the other side the minibus was waiting, I was joined by a German family who were going to Goolwa, then onto Melbourne.

The Journey from the Cape to Port Elliot went without mishap; hit no Kangaroos, though we saw plenty grazing near to the road. We also had a fantastic sunset, so that brought out plenty of Oos and Ahhs from the passengers. But it didn't matter how many Oos and Ahhs they made the driver was not stopping or even slowing down.

I thought that they may have shut up shop,

but no, Anthea and Richard the owners, were still up and about,

we had a chat and then as it had been a long day it was time for bed.

Next day being Sunday and the day that the historical train runs between Goolwa and Victor Harbor, and seeing as I had arranged to meet Sonya and her Husband John for coffee, that was what I would be doing.

I also wanted to do a bit of shopping and Victor Harbor has a large shopping precinct, I caught an early train and had lunch as well.

The weather was lousy, quite cold considering it was summer; we did sit outside though behind glass screens, we chatted a bit about Kangaroo Island and me next move as I was getting the early bus back to Adelaide as I was spending Christmas there. It was time to head back to the railways station and jump on the train back to Port Elliot. (I will not bother you with a set of Photographs of the train in reverse)

I had bought  Lamb chops to BBQ so these needed a bit of a dry rub, this done wrapped in cling rap and into the fridge for a couple of hours.  I walked into town and had a cup flat white (now my favourite drink), then went back to the YHA and done a bit of nothing.

I stoked up the BBQ, well switched on the gas; I also had some vegetables on the boil so with no further ado I slapped the chops onto the Barbie.

They did taste very nice, especially when washed down with a glass or two of Wolf Blass.

I was sitting in the reception chatting with Richard (and finishing off the bottle) when I looked out of the window, the sky was taking on a very nice colour, we said it could well be a very nice sunset, it was! It looked as if the sky was on fire! Lots of well deserved Oooooos and Aaaaaahs for this one!

So after the excitement of the sunset, I packed my bags, as next day it was back to old Aunt Adelaide.

See you there for Christmas.

Around the World (Again) The nautical part

Kangaroo Island- The story of Gemini and the Kayak

Monday morning

I was doing a bit of beach combing at Christmas Cove, this is better than at Hogs Bay. The bay was actually scoured out by a glacier, and you can see the marks on the rock walls of the rubbing of the lateral moraines.

It was low tide and as I came down the grass bank (there are steps, but some fool didn’t know how to calculate a tread and they are about 1 ½  steps). I noticed a pelican fishing on the water, I hadn’t seen a one in Christmas Cove before, though out at American River there are a lot, this one may have just thought he would try his luck here today.

 The shore line was being picked over by a couple of Oyster Catchers, I disturbed them and they flew across to the other side. I had a look at the area where they had been feeding and it would seem from the newly discarded cockle shells that they had started their meal off with a good entrée.

I went around the opposite side from the jetties and moorings, as this seemed it could hold a lot more things that hide under rocks.

I wasn’t wrong, though you had to walk through a bit of slick. On the other side of the break water (only accessible at low tide) I found some  crabs hiding under stones, only small, but perfect size for bait.

I notice the tide (which had been slack) was turning and as I was on the wrong side of the breakwater, I thought it prudent to get on the right side of it ( you never want to get on the wrong side of a breakwater).  I retraced my steps and then crossed a little spring, this could have been used by Matthew Flinders to fill his water butts, though from the amount of water leaching out of the ground I hope that it was a bit more productive that it is today. I also noticed a small bronze plaque attached to a rock, this was the place that he landed ( or here abouts, as no one is alive from the crew to verify or dispute the fact). Though the cairn that is erected to the event is at another place as you shall see later.

I was walking towards the jetty when I noticed Tony, he was just about to go out on one of his safaris, I walked down the jetty to tell him I would pop in tomorrow with the photos on a stick (no not a forked one) He said “do you fancy a trip out, I’ll do you a special rate”, I said “how special”?  he said” Normally $75, I’ll do it for 60” I replied “your out of luck I only have 50 bucks on me”  (this works all over the world, in Turkey, in Egypt, in Hong Kong and now in Christmas Bay) he took the 50 dollar note and said “don’t tell the others”.

The tour was actually a bit of a trial as he had a new crew member and was showing him the ropes, there was also a mate of his, who he had picked up the evening before from across the Backdoor Passage, (he had missed the ferry) I bet that was one hell of a trip.  That is him sitting next to me and we had a good chat, the chap behind me is the cook from the pub.

So we set off out through the harbour entrance and turned to Port, and headed along the coast line, passing a small cairn on Kangaroo point in recognition of Matthew Flinders first landfall on Kangaroo Island. 

Tony suddenly slowed the motors down to a chug  and said look over there, that is a fish eagle sitting on one of his favourite perches, looking for something to catch.

The Australian White Bellied or Fronted Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) it is the second largest eagle in Australia, the largest being the Wedge Tailed Eagle, but the difference is not great, as is normal in Raptors, the female is larger than the male. Fish only makes up about 50% of its diet, it will take small land mammals, penguin chicks, sea snakes, it will also feed on carrion such as dead sheep. It will also take the food from gulls and other sea birds by harrying them or even attacking them by flying upside down and using their talons from below to take the fish from the victim.

It is a wonderful looking bird with a bright pure white breast/belly feathers as its name implies.

We then slowly edged away and Tony steered the boat further along the coast to our next stop, this was to a colony of Black-Faced Shags (Phalacrocoraax fuscescens), here it may be of use to the none ornithologists amongst you to tell you the difference between Cormorants and Shags, in some cases the term is used for the same bird, but it is true to say that Shags are totally marine whereas Cormorants can be both (inland waters and sea). 

The Black-Faced Shag is coastal (you will not find it strays far out to sea), it feeds on smallish fish and can dive to a depth of 12m, though feeding predominantly on smaller fish, it can catch fish up to 50cm.

It and its Cormorant brethren are hated with a vengeance by commercial and hobby fishermen alike. The commercial saying it raids their Salmon and Barramundi fish pens, the hobby anglers saying that they take the fish that they are wanting to take. I tend to agree, though it is a very nice looking bird and looks to all the world like a waiter in his white starched bib and black frocked coat. Tony told us a nice little story. He had an American tourist on board who ask what are those long necked penguins that you have on the island, Tony. Tony replied that he had lived on the Island most of his life and had never seen them, as they reached the Shag colony, the American said “that’s them the long necked penguins” from then on they are now referred to by Tony as the Long necked penguins.

We rounded the headland, passing the secluded “Browns Beach” if you want some secluded bathing this is the spot and also some smashing fishing is to be had here with Snook, King George Whiting, Salmon, Bass and Squid to be taken in abundance (or so Tony said).

We arrived at the Dudley Peninsula’s answer to Admirals Arch, not because of the Arch or any other weather worn geological wonder; here is a colony of New Zealand Fur Seals (Arctosephalus forsteri). The New Zealand or Southern fur seal has ears and hind flippers that can rotate forward making it very versatile on land. But what nearly drove it to extinction, was its two layers of fur, the belly fur is fine and white and much sort after by the haut couture for making women’s coats, muffs and hats.

The early sealers that visited this Island thought they had arrived in paradise, fur from the Fur Seal and blubber from the Sea-Lion. The colonies are even today not up to their numbers that existed in the late 1800s.

Next along the coast is Baudin Beach, formerly called American Beach, this is the beach that I could see from Sunset Winery the day I took that “short” walk. It is a very fine expanse of sand and much loved for its safe swimming and good fishing, but it is also a place much frequented by the real highlight of the parade, the Dolphins.

As we entered Island beach Tony pointed ahead, there was a pod of 3 dolphin one obviously a female as she had a very young calf, as we slowed they approached the boat and started to dive underneath, turning and waving, the cow actually brought the calf alongside to show us, tony said this is not normal as the female will always try and keep her body between boat and the calf. I took plenty of shots, but they move at such a speed as soon as you think you have one in view, they either dive or turn away, here are a few near misses to show you.

 

But I did get a couple of reasonable ones,










we stayed quite a while. Tony said look up in the air, and there circling high in the sky was an Osprey, it was a wonderful sight as it circled in the thermic currents.

We turned for home at this point and Tony explained that the piece of high ground in front was in fact Prospect Hill and was the hill that Matthew Flinders had climbed and that had confirmed that this piece of land was in fact an Island, from here at the narrowest part of the Island a mere kilometre or so across.
We once again travelled at full throttle, boy could that boat move, as we turned into Baudin beach he once again dropped to a crawl and here a pod of 5 dolphins came to greet us. They also wanted to play, Tony said if he turned the engines right off they lose interest and go and look for a new play pal, but keep the engines just ticking over they will stay and play around the boat.

He also explained that when they sleep they are still half awake, as they have the ability to shut half of their brains down, while swimming slowly along, amazing creatures are dolphins.

t was then time to head for home, disembark 

 and a well-earned pint to be had by all!

My Kayak fishing trip

The next day I had arranged to take a Kayak out for a spot of fishing, again a special rate. (You have got to haggle).

I got to the Cove early and this meant I could have a look at what was about, their was a load of small fry, whitebait size.

I immediately thought of Steve in New Zealand and is love for whitebait netting and whitebait fritters.
Along came Tony in his pickup, a double and a brand, spanking new single, I was taking her on her maiden voyage, reflections of Titanic did spring to mind, but looking at it I said to my self this looks nothing like the Titanic, wrong time of the year for Icebergs and everyone on board this vessel had a life Jacket. Getting everything on board, stowing my camera and wallet into the waterproof compartment, I was ready for the off. This time it was lures as I was after Australian Salmon (not true Salmon) and squid. So out I paddled, it was at times a little choppy, but nothing that an old salt like me can’t handle.

Ahem, I almost at once thought I had a one, alas I had snagged the lure and had to break the trace, all I had now was the Squid lure, ah well I fancied a nice bit of salt and pepper squid for tea tonight.

 I also took a photo of a couple of soles

I allowed the kayak to drift with the outgoing tide along the shore line. The squid will hide amongst the rocks and kelp hiding from predators (like salmon), but when a prawn comes along, whoosh, it will streak out of its hiding place and grab the prey, alas this prawn had a lot of tiny barbs at the tail end and that was its undoing and my supper.

As I said I only fish for the pot and one was enough to give me a decent meal, so I paddled back to watch a colony of “Long Necked Penguins” fishing and standing on the rocks with outstretched wings drying their armpits.
As I headed back to the cove, I saw that Tony was coming out with a boat full of full paying padssangers, hee hee, He hove too and asked had I caught anything, I said a squid and he had lost a lure.

I was back well before they returned so I had a bit of a try along the breakwater, but no luck, I pulled the Kayak up onto the boat launch slipway and slipped (I suppose that is what you are meant to do), but after being floating and paddling about for a good 3 hours, could I not at least stay dry for these few extra minutes. Luckily I had an extra pair of trunks (not budgie smugglers I hasten to add)a quick change and I was fit for public viewing.

Tony arrived back and after getting everything on land and onto the back of the pickup, I headed for home to get my squid prepared for supper.

 Salt, pepper and chilli squid

First pull the head and tentacles out of the body (tube), I always deal with the top end first, using a very sharp knife cut through the head and release the eyes (they do look gruesome) cut  the stomach sack out of it and the ink-sack (if I had been making a risotto, I would have used the ink), slice the tentacles into bite size pieces. After this remove the wings from the tube and skin them and also skin the tube.

Next using the wooden handle of a spoon turn the tube inside out. Do this by pushing the handle of the wooden spoon gently into the closed end of the tube, slowly by pushing and folding you will turn the tube inside out. You can now clean it under running water, removing any gunge that is adhering to the flesh.

Cut the tube in half and then score in a diamond pattern, before cutting into mouth size oblongs.

I made a coating using a packet of Colman’s herb fish coating, and added a good bit of Chilli and a good pinch of pepper.

I now though what will I eat with it, this as I rummaged through my Backpackers storage bag (every Backpacker has a one) I found the packet of rice that I had used for the Paella (remember), I foolish person had discarded the ink-sack, never mind I would still make a mushroom risotto as an accompaniment.

I diced an onion and a clove of garlic and sweated this off in a little oil, added the diced mushrooms and a few herbs (I still had some rosemary from the Herb garden at Port Elliot). I added half a cup (about) of rice and allowed to take on translucence. I had made up a good 500ml to 600ml of chicken stock (sorry no wine).

I added this a little at a time until all was absorbed and the risotto tasted bloody good.

While doing this I had dredged the squid pieces in the flour mixture and heating oil in a frying pan quickly seared these, they will curl up into tubes, this is the time to remove from the heat, any longer and you will be eating pieces of the Pirelli man.

 

I had a very enjoyable meal, I find there isn’t a lot more satisfying than killing (fishing or hunting), preparing and cooking your very own meal.

After the meal I went along the beach, it was a beautiful evening and it was a very nice sunset over the Bay.

The next morning I popped into Tony’s office to tell him I had sent him the photos attached to an e-mail he said thank you and as a thank you would I fancy coming out on the boat at midday he had free places and I might as well come along, I thought that was very kind and an offer too good to refuse.

So I had a bit of shopping to do (not a lot of shops, well there is only one and the post office), that finished I crossed the road saying good morning to two German Sister that I had met that morning, they just happened to be sitting on the park picnic table that overlooks the cove. I went down the bank (you remember about the silly built steps) and had a chat with Tony and his one man crew (I am terrible with names).

The crew member was actually a cameraman for Malcolm Douglas of television Crocodile fame, this is out in Broome. He works there most of the year, but had decided to come back to Kangaroo Island for the summer season (up in Broome it is the wet season and it rains solid until March). He was a great character, he had a bit of land out near Cape Willoughby (you remember the lighthouse keepers daughter) and he had built himself a beach shack out of washed up timbers and branches (you don’t need a lot of planning permission here). He also had an open sided 4 wheel drive, he had just travelled from broom to kangaroo Island along the coast road, along the Nullabor, the route I wanted to take to Perth but in reverse. 

Just then the girls came down the road, and along the jetty, this was part of today’s catch I mean passenger inventory . There was also a family with a small child and another couple, as they were paying I had to take a back seat, never mind a free be is a free be and at least I could hear what Tony was saying above the noise of the motors.

 

We headed out of the harbour and along the well worn sea track, first headed to the Sea Eagles perch, empty, then along the coast to the seals, almost empty, plenty of Long necked Penguins for Tony to tell the story of the silly American, but then we headed out into the bay, no dolphins, we headed a bit further along , this is a place that there is always some, but alas the bay was empty, devoid of Dolphins. Now Tony was a bit worried having promised them all at least Dolphins, he headed a little further out into Nepean Bay and then just as he was about to give it up, a pod of dolphin appeared alongside the boat ( I saw a look of relief on his face).

They followed us for a good while and then as we neared the Eagles Perch we saw that it was there, it had been out fishing and had a quite sizable one held firmly in its talons while it tore pieces out of the fish with its hooked beak, so the day had turned out very well for all of us, paying and none paying.

Tony then done a round of photograph taking in the wheel house, it was then time to head for harbour and I for pint and a steak sandwich with chips.

By the way the Adelaide Aussie Rules Club is called the Magpies and In the Penneshaw they have a shirt hanging the bar. They have good taste in Penneshaw.  

 

Howay the Ade Laides