England - August 2012 (day 1) Constable Country and the Kings Head Laxfield

Constable Country

Leaving NRW at midnight, we headed for the Ferry at Dunkirk, after a few false turns we had decided in our own minds that we wouldn’t make the 06:00 ferry, on arrival this was confirmed at the friendly woman in the booking in booths, we passed through passport control and boot inspection and proceeded to the loading lanes, just before arriving at the entrance to park up lanes, we got directed directly onto the ferry, we got on to the ferry as the last vehicle.

So we arrived at those white chalk cliffs, prompt and discharged into a sunny English morning, we headed up the M20 and through the Dartford tunnel.  A few months ago while planning the tour Linda had said that she had never been to Constable Country, I had been in this area many times in the past and Flatford Mill is a particular favourite of mine, so on leaving the ferry put East Bourgolt into the Sat Nav. Linda said why are we going there, I replied that she had requested it, her not knowing that hamlet of Flatford on the river Stour, where the millers son Constable had painted  quite a few of his most famous paintings, lay at the end of a winding lane  from that village. It was not until we had parked up and on leaving the car park that it clicked, this was the epicentre of Constable Country.


swifts catching damselflys over the river Stour at flatford

We spent a couple of blissful hours, wandering in and around the area surrounding the mill, the lock and the cottages.

We visited the hide on the edge of lake, spending a good half an hour watching grebes, mergansers, ducks tufted, pintail and ruddy, swifts hunting, a cormorant up in the trees as well as many butterflies and other flying insects.

We rounded the field containing some polka dotted fat tailed sheep,

 returning to the actual mill buildings

One final look into the Constable exhibition in Bridge Cottage and then up to the car park.  On arrival there where very few cars in the car park, upon leaving it was filling up quite quickly.

We headed up via the coast to our first nights’ accommodation, this was in a small village called Laxfield, we has been directed here by a friend from the wildfood board a website on which I contribute. She used to live here and when I asked if anyone knew of a reasonable B&B in the area, she came to the rescue, suggesting the “Kings Head”, http://www.laxfieldkingshead.co.uk/ this is an old, no, an ancient pub, complete with oak beams, low ceilings, scrubbed deal tables, a fantastic  garden.

We got our baggage out of the car and up into our room in annex.

We had a snooze and then popped down for a spot of grub, we elected to sit out in the wonderful garden, it was a happy garden, the kids and dogs could play and tumble about on the large lawn, plenty of seating and even a small pavilion for those that didn’t like to eat with Al Fresco.

Linda fancied a G&T and I had a pint of “Special” from the tap room. We settled down on our table and a chirpy young lass came to take our order.

The Menu was small but well diversified, a bit of everything for everyone.

I selected, the warm pigeon breast and bacon salad for starters and Linda the goats’ cheese and beetroot.
My pigeon breast was tender and still juicy and pink, the crispy fried lardoons of local bacon a wonderful foil, the small salad with a nice fruity dressing and a wedge of whole meal cob. Linda was in raptures over her warm goats’ cheese and beetroot.

The mains were Gressingham duck breast dressed in a five spice sauce with game chips and spiced red cabbage for me and Linda had the Fish of the day, this was filet of cod with a herb crust, new potatoes and sauce tartar.

My main course of Gressingham duck, succulent slices of wonderfully moist breast, lacquered with an oriental five spice Hoisin sauce, game chips (a little too thick) and a crunchy delicately spiced red cabbage accompaniment . Linda had ordered seasonal vegetables to accompany her Pesto crusted cod tail filet, I snaffled some of these as well. She said that this was cooked to perfection and the Pesto crust was very nice and subtle but not overpowering.

They were both served with seasonal vegetables, carrots and beans.

I must say I did have to get up once to see Mo win the 5000m on a television that had set up in the smoker’s area adjacent to the tap room.

As it was by this time turning dark we went and sat in front room (the pub has no bar, you either order from the staff or go yourself into the taproom),

some of the locals came in and joined us at the scrubbed deal table, we chatted for a good hour, I seated next to an interesting 92 year old young lady, she chatted about her time in Germany just after the war and her daughter who was with her had been born in BMH Hanover 62 years previously. An interesting evening and very interesting chit chat (you learn a lot about village life in these old hostelries).

We had, had a very long enjoyable day, and a weary person, plonked his head onto the pillows and was fast asleep in no time at all.

Sunday morning the day of the picnic.

I was up bright and early, the sun was already warming the ground, so pulling on a pair of shorts and a polo shirt I went out into the early morning air. The Kings Head is situated across from the Medieval Church; it has a square tower much vaunted by churches of the 13^th century.

The present church of All Saints was finished in 1488 sits on the site of a prior Saxon Church, this is born out from the very rare baptismal font dated pre 1460.

Like many of the churches in this strong puritan area, this church suffered at hands of first the reformation at the end of Henry VIII reign and finally during the rule of Cromwell under the hammer of one William Dowsing, who removed all remaining ornaments and Roman Catholic symbols of high church worship.



I returned just as Bob the Landlord was taking his two dogs out for a walk, we had a chat about nothing in particular, as one does in these parts (Lol). I then went and sat in the garden and watched the martins flashing across the lawn before soaring up into the bright blue sky, a tree full of coal and blue tits was a cacophony of chirping. The pigeons, billing and cooing, it would seem that they had decided to make up their numbers again for the one I had eaten yesterday evening. I went up to our room, well, well Linda was up and ready, we decided to load up the car ready for a quick get-a-way after breakfast.
Linda went for a walk and Bob came around the corner to say that if I cared to go into the dining room I could start, now I had been informed by Alison that the Low-House breakfast is a one that sets you up for the rest of the day, but I had arranged with Bob the previous evening that I would be having kippers, well it isn’t every Sunday morning I get to have kippers without stinking out my apartment.

I texted Linda that breakfast was being served so she ordered bacon, eggs and grilled tomatoes. What could be better a bowl of cereal, a fresh brewed cup of coffee and a grilled kipper with granary bread?

We had phoned ahead to our next B&B to see if we could drop our things off before going on to Blickling for the Picnic of the year 2012, the answer was if we arrived before 11:30 it would be no problem, so into the car and then off up to the North Norfolk coast and Sheringham. Bags unloaded and a quick turn-a-round out to Blickling hall grounds and gardens.

I will continue tomorrow.

T-bone and smoked trout

Weekend food and other things

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Saturday

Irish T-bone with roast summer veg and roast beetroot

I had been shopping during to the week and had seen that they had 2 Irish T-bone steaks reduced by 30% now that is a good reduction in anyone’s money. So I being alone, decided on the small of the 2, it was 375g (on reflection I wish I had bought them both, but reflections aren’t always that good, said he remembering the one in the mirror this morning).

Saturday morning turned out bright and beautiful so I mounted my bike and went out for a 2 hr bike ride, it was a nice morning and I stopped off for a nice cup of coffee and an egg roll at one of the many bakeries, just before getting home. Showered and change of clothing, went to the market, if only to get a few spuds and fresh eggs from the stall run by my neighbour (one of them), I had seen them harvesting the potatoes on Friday so knew that they would have new potatoes, they always have fresh eggs. I next went to a small bio stand and bought some red peppers, courgettes, and broad beans, so that was the weekend food almost sorted only tonight’s meal, then a thought struck me. What about smoked trout, I mean self caught and home smoked. So with that in mind, I loaded up my fishing tackle, I also planned to pop into the Steinhorster Becken http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steinhorster_Becken

to have a look at the bird life, this is only about 4 km away from the trout lakes. I often pop in when here in the vicinity and as I hadn’t been here since spring was pleasantly surprised at the vast amount of bird life on and over the water.

Leaving the becken I travelled the few kilometres to the trout lakes, I got there about 1 hour before it closed, but the catching of trout in the ponds is not a real art as the fish are reared and then released into the ponds for day anglers, I was only after a couple but by the time it closed at 17:00 had 3 reasonable sized ones. Cost for all 3, €7,- the largest 420g the rest just above 300g. So bonked over the head, into a bag and off home to clean and brine them for tomorrow.

So down to the steak, I had removed it from the fridge before leaving and rubbed it in olive oil, covered and brought up to room temperature (which was quite warm). I had bought a couple of bottles of ALDI’s best pink so that was in the fridge cooling.

I do not believe in marinating GOOD steaks in anything but oil, why cover up the taste of a good piece of steak with a heavy marinade, I will if BBQing, tend to season after or during the cooking process, I may even through some herbs into the embers to create a bit of smoke. I will also make a good sauce and herby/spiced vegetables as an accompaniment. I will at other times make a dry rub and apply this just prior to putting onto the BBQ grid.

Pork and game I treat differently, in that they can take a lot of extra added flavour without destroying the meats own.

Fire up the BBQ (I have a combo grill/smoker)

Then make the rest of the food, the BBQ charcoal should be completely covered with a grey ask film, before use.

Roasted beetroot with herb quark

3 beetroots about the same size

Olive oil

Thyme

Salt

Pepper

125g pot of herb quark (you can use quark and add your own herbs)

Wash the beetroots under running water trying not to break the skin, dry with kitchen paper, pour some olive oil into a roasting tin (I used a bread loaf tin) strip some leaves from a couple of sprigs of Thyme add these along with a pinch or two of sea salt. Roll the beets around so that they are all covered, pop them into a pre-heated oven (220°C) for 40-45 minutes.

When they are soft, but not shrivelled (use a meat skewer to test) remove them from the tin and either rub the skin off or peal with a sharp knife. Cut into quarters and pour the remains of the oil, thyme salt mixture over them. Add the quark and mix, cover and set aside. (I also added a few broad beans that I had also cooked)

 The Roasted Summer vegetables.

1 red pepper (deseeded and halved)

1 courgette (cut into slices length ways)

2 medium onions (peeled and cut into quarters)

10 fat garlic cloves (leave the parchment skin on).

small handfulp pitted kalamata olives

Sun dried tomatoes in oil

6 Anchovy filets in oil.

4 new potatoes (scraped clean and boiled)

Olive oil

Dried herbs (herb de Provence)

Sea salt (I have some from the Isle de Noirmoutier)

Fresh ground peppers

Fresh herbs (rosemary, thyme, marjoram)

Mix red peppers and sliced courgettes, add the garlic cloves, olives and tomatoes. Splash with olive oil and the mixed dried herbs, sprinkle with the salt and give it a couple of grinds of pepper, cover with foil and into the oven with the beetroots.

When you remove the beetroots, remove the foil from the roasting vegetables, give them another stir and add potatoes cut into wedges along with the anchovy filets, return to the oven and turn up the heat for about 5-10 minutes (to brown the potatoes and blacken the red peppers).

Now remove the cover from the steak and put it onto the BBQ grid, lid down and after 3 minutes lift lid and turn, now season the done side, I used a little salt, pepper and some L&P, as I said before it’s the steak I want to taste not a whole load of other flavours. Test the steak (I like mine rare, very rare), when it is done to your taste, turn quickly , season as before and place on a platecover and allow to rest for a few minutes.

Go and get your beetroot, veg and cold wine.

Plate up with your vegetables, enjoy your meal I did.

Sunday

Smoked trout.

Your fresh caught trout, gut and remove the gills, put them into a bowl that can take them and 2 litres of 7% brine (I used a propriety brand with herbs and spices already mixed in), pour over the brine and cover, leave in a cool place to brine overnight (there are some that just rub, with brining salt, but I find this a bit hit and miss).

Next day, remove from the brine and wash under running water to get rid of any bits and pieces adhering to the skin or the cavity. Dry with kitchen paper, they are now ready to smoke!

When ready, fire up your smoker, place the trout belly side down and opened up on a grilling tray. Place your sawdust either into your smoke box or as I have, a solid cast-iron, disc. Place this onto the coals and wait until it starts to smoke.

Trout in, lid down and after 10-15 minutes you will have 3 fantastic smoked trout,

 golden brown and still juicy (when the dorsal fin comes out when lightly pulled with the thumb and forefinger, it is perfect).



Plate up and I used some of the vegetables left over from yesterday and a new potato and broad bean salad.

Potatoes and Broad bean salad

5-6 scrubbed new potatoes

750g of fresh broad beans (podded)

1 tablespoon of olive oil

1 teaspoon of white wine vinegar

½ tsp of balsamic (best quality, it was a present)

Fresh Rosemary, Oregano, small leaf Basil and Thyme, leaves removed from the steams

Salt and pepper

Boil your potatoes and broad beans in salted water, then mix together with the olive oil, vinegar and balsamic. Add the herbs and serve warm.

That’s it sit on your balcony in the sun, sipping a glass of pink plonk and listening to the Cricket (England Vs South Africa).

Cauliflower rice

Here is an amazing recipe; I am along with a few others on the wildfood web site trying to lose a bit of weight. Lee the web owner and site Guru is also on a diet. He told us about this rice substitute, it is cauliflower, yes you read it correctly cauliflower, it originally came from "Fat Secrets" the programme that he is following, and so here is how I made it:

You will require 1 cauliflower head and that’s it in its purist sense, now Lee thought it would be even better bulked up with some pre-cooked rice. This made me think “Bulgar”, so I made up some Bulgar with Marigold vegetable stock and soy sauce.

Remove the florets’ from the stalks(don’t throw them away) and pulse them in the kitchen machine, I have a smallish Moulinette, so had to do it in two batches, do not over blitz, it should look like small grains of rice, transfer  to a microwave bowl and cover with cling film.

Chop the cauliflower stems quite small.

For the stir fry you will require:

The chopped cauliflower stems

2 spring onions sliced

2 pointy paprika diced (1 red and 1 yellow, but this was just for aesthetics)

100g of pre-cooked chicken strips (you could make your own, but I bought these)

2cm of ginger grated

A thumb nail size piece of shrimp paste

Pinch of chilli shrimp powder

Some anchovy sauce (about a tsp.)

Soy sauce

Fish sauce

Oyster sauce

1 table spoon of wok oil

Here we go, this is quick, oil in wok, in goes the cauli stalks, stir fry over a high heat until just starting to colour, then grate in the ginger, then the rest of the veg.

 At this point, put the bowl with the Cauliflower rice, into the microwave and cook at highest setting for 3 minutes.

When it goes ping, take it out of the microwave, give it a stir and then cling film back on and into the pinging machine for another minute.

Add the chicken strips, as these are already cooked they just need heating through.

Add the shrimp paste, shrimp chilli powder, and all of the sauces to the stir fry, keep it moving.

Remove cling film, stir in the Bulgar wheat (any liquid not absorbed pour into the stir fry). That is it, no more, no less, plate up your rice and spoon your stir fry over the top.

All you have to do is eat it, this gets a great big thumbs up, Lee thanks for the tip, it was fantastic.

For true vegi meal just miss out the fishythings and the chicken, you could use torfu