From Big Sur toCarmel, Cannery Row and into Oakland
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| Point Sur Light Station (a military installation) |
After a very nice drive along HW1 we in the the old, old town of Carmel by the Sea!
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| The Ancient Town of Carmel? |
We were exceptionally early not many people around and the
shops were just opening for business, I must say Clint has his town well and
truly in order, no garish neon lights or high rise here, everything is prim and
proper, yep you’ve done a good job there.
We got a nice parking space not far from the beach, we
walked down and though not the only ones up early it wasn’t what you could call
over crowded. After surveying the beach we walked back up the slight incline
stopping to admire the art, artefacts and sweet-shops, I used the public toilet
(just thought I would mention it) in a wonderful shady park, that some kind
lady had bought to save it from development and turned into a place that you
could stop and while away the time, no stress here.
We visited a “real” English Sweet Shop, I bought some of the
licorice that they had on display, Linda is not fussed on licorice so it lasts a long time, chocolate now that is another thing. We also had our morning
coffee and I a slice of carrot cake and Linda a chocolate covered Donut, well
if she wasn’t getting it from me she would get it from somewhere else.
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| This may look as if Linda is "relieving herself" but she was only smelling the flowers |
I had noticed that they had named a street after me!
We unhitched Jucy and turned her head to the North and left
Clint and his town folks to go about their businesses whatever it was, but
whatever it is they are keeping this this one time mission station in fair
trim.
It wasn’t far up the highway to Monterey our next stop, we
popped into the public information centre (look for the sign of the i). We parked up and went in to be
greeted by a wonderful lady with a nice “Morning how are you all” what can I do
for you folks this morning.
I said I would like to see the Sea Otters (I had seen Matt
Baker on BBCs Spring Watch watching them from Monterey earlier in the year), we
would also like to get a place to stay for the night, that wasn’t too far out
of town as we wanted to spend a full day here.
She told us the best places to see the Sea Otters in their
natural habitat was from the walk-way on the roof of the aquarium. She said the
aquarium was a must visit in any case. Also we could travel a little way out of
town going north and at a place called Moss Landing you could always see them
as they floated along with the tide in the creek, there were also few campsites on the way out to it.
She said that we could park right outside across the street
beside the City Mortuary, I don’t think that Jucy would be mistaken for a
hearse! She also told us a free street car system that runs in a loop from
Fisherman’s Wharf along Cannery Row, made famous by John Steinbeck’s Novel of
the same name, right up to the front of the aquarium, that had been built into
one of the old canning factories.
She had also informed us that the starting point of this
loop was at the customs house and old Fisherman’s Wharf which was a short walk
away. So armed with our cameras and the maps with her knowledge marked on we
parked Jucy outside of the Town Morgue and headed into town. We started off at
the newer fish harbour, taking in the comings and goings. You pass a wonderful
beach which just shows that a touristy place and a working harbour don’t have
to be tacky and smelly.
Next was a visit were it all started "The Customs House" back in 1846 when a
regiment of US Marines landed and threw the then owners (Mexicans) out and
raised the Stars and Stripes claiming it for the USA (not only Monterey but the
whole of California). It had a very nice Cacti garden attached.
We then went along the original Fisherman’s wharf watched
the sea lions warming themselves in the late morning sun, which reminded us we
should start looking for a place for lunch.
All the eateries were offering free tasters of clam chowder
to entice the punters in from the wharf, we decided that would be our measure,
so we travelled the length of the wharf tasting clam chowder, we found a one
that was to our taste (they were all to our taste, but some more than others).
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| Real "New England" Clam Chowder |
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| The Tail of Lindas Lobster |
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| My Dungeness Crab |
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| The chap standing is the boss de Hôte, he visited every table and had a chat. |
We had been given a ticket for a free starter when doing the tasting, so once
seated along came the cup of Clam Chowder with crackers, then the rest of the
order, Linda had grilled lobster tails and I half a Dungeness Crab (what else).
I can really recommend this restaurant, the others may be just as good, but as
I didn’t eat in them I am unable to pass judgement (as if I ever would).
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| Here comes the street car |
We next jumped on one of the old street cars, this took us
to the Aquarium. We hopped off and right before our eyes were the cops, not one
or two but about 20, they were dressed in running costumes and others in their
battle gear.
We took a few photos’ I never did get to find out what the
idea was.
(I have been informed by out friend Richard that they were fund raising, I didn't see any box rattling or fund buckets a la UK!
We went into the Aquarium and got our tickets, we were told
to hurry along as the Penguins were about to be fed. We went up a floor and
there were two helpers sitting inside the glass cage (is there such a thing?)
feeding the penguins, one had a throat microphone and was telling us all about
the penguins and there habits (they did look a bit like Nuns).
Next it was time
for the Sea Otters here they have 6 rescued Otters (various reasons, injuries,
illness or orphaned), these were being put through their paces, each Otter has
a mentor and each mentor puts them through various exercises, in the wild they
would get this by searching for food and escaping from predators.
We next went outside to the deck that overlooks the kelp
beds, there are always marine scientists about and are all too willing to
explain and point out the Otters in the Kelp about 100mtrs offshore. We
actually had a mother with her Kit float right in front of us, she was clutching
her kit to her chest even when she dived in search of food.
We went inside as it was feeding time in the main big tidal
tank, this was full with all manner of fish, some of which should have been on
my plate. We went to some of the smaller displays, Jelly Fish, sea birds and the like,
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| Tufted Puffins |
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| Tufted Puffin and a Black Oyster Catcher |
But
it was getting late and we still hadn’t a camp site for the night, so it was
out and just missed a beside the Statue of the man that put Monterey on the
map, John Steinbeck, we thought by going across the street we could catch
another alas it doesn’t come down that side so we had to wait about 20 minutes.
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The bust of John Steinbeck
We got back to Fisherman’s Wharf, hoofed it around to the
Morgue and there was dear Ol’ Jucy still tethered where we had left her. We put
her into gear and put the destination into the SatNav and headed out of town in
the direction of Salinas (Birth Place of John Ernest Steinbeck) this was one of the campsites that we had been
informed about at the Information Centre, this would do us for the night, this
would be our last real night of our tour as next day we would be heading into Oakland
to a RV park that I had found on the internet, that would leave us just a short
journey to the rental station on Doolittle Drive and return our liddle ol’
Jucy.
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We found the campsite Marina Dunes RV park, without much ado,
got set up for the night and cooked whatever we had left to cook (I think it
was bacon and eggs) and settled down for the night.
Next morning we set off and headed for Oakland but first we
wanted to visit Moss Landings a small fishing port just a little way up the
coast, this is where the kind lady had pointed us yesterday. We found it no bother.
We were in luck, the tide was coming in and with it all manner of wildlife,
birds, seals and a couple of Sea Otters floating in on the tide.
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| She did like her glass of white wine or two |
On the way in we had seen what seemed a fish market with a restaurant
attached so not having had breakfast we decided to see what they had to offer.
This was another gem, fresh fish, crabs, shellfish in abundance, you just
placed your order and you could eat it at the bar, there was a more formal part
that you ordered and they served it, but that wasn’t for us, we are old salts
and seasoned trail blazers, we sat at the bar. We chatted to a young(ish) lady
sitting next to me, she was very jovial (while we were there she sloshed back 3
glasses of wine) also another chatted to Linda and she was on a jolly, she had
a Winery out in Nappa valley (wish I had got to know here before). I had some
fresh crab meat, drank a water. It was a nice little place, but it was time to
leave and head up the one, one last time.
We arrived in Oakland RV Park, it was more residential than
for passing by, but they had a nice pitch for us (I said to Linda that I had further
to go at home to the loo), we got rid of all the stuff that we were not taking
home with us (my trekking sandals had past their sell by date so went into the
bin) and took the car to a car wash so that Jucy was spick and span for
tomorrow. We went to a fast food place that evening, it was Hawaiian, I hope
the Hawaiians eat better back home, because this was the worst food we had in
all of the time in America.
We walked back to the site (just a matter of 150 mtrs) and got
everything ready so that we could head straight into the hire company the next
morning.
Next day up early and headed into town, it wasn’t far and we
were there about an hour before they opened, we plonked our Lucy alongside
another Jucy, she was one of the new-fangled ones, I still liked our dear Jucy
the best, over 5000 km and with the exception of the door fob episode, not a thing went
wrong. Brian (the chap that had rented it to us, came out had a quick
inspection (I mean quick, he didn’t check a thing,) we signed and ask if he
could call a cab to take us to the BART, he said don’t worry I will run you
around there. What a fine chap, the type that you would use again and again and
if we are doing this again, we shall be using him.
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| The Old and The New |
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| Good Bye Jucy, you served us well |
So onto the Bart and then the Metro and ended up where we
started at Richard’s .
But more about that tomorrow.